Q.G. I could really use your help again!

Submitted by Pirate on Fri, 11/28/2008 - 16:41

I was hoping to recieve my Hassy 1000F today that I oredered last week, but I didn't.


Instead, I recieved a 1600F  --- they goofed and had this labeled as a 1000F in their store!


So I have a 1951 Hasselblad 1600F with three backs for a Kiev 88 that are said to fit a 1000F since that's what I thought I was buying and a 80mm Tessar that mounts with only a slight snag- but the threads in the body were a little rough but all in tact.


My big question is this:   I bought all the parts to put together since they were all labeled for a 1000F.  Which parts (lens & backs) are interchangeable between a 1600F and a 1000F.   Simple logic would tell me that they all should be interchangeable but I need to know from someone with experience, not wishful guessing (like me).


What do you know about this??




Fri, 11/28/2008 - 19:00

And now it's jammed.




the mirror is down, the shutter is cocked and ready but the winder knob has a ways to go - and the gear in the back for the photo advance is still sticking out.


Any thoughts on that??


Fri, 11/28/2008 - 19:13

First question: all things that work on a 1000 F also work on a 1600 F.

I wouldn't use Kiev backs though.

Second question: sorry to hear that! Really bad luck. It sounds like the thing desperately needs a repair.  Which is difficult, since only one or two people still work on these old cameras.

It probably was not in a very good condition to begin with. I would contact the seller, see if you can get your money back.



Fri, 11/28/2008 - 22:09

Hey, I got it fixed.  It appears that it's just temperamental.  If I take it slow (I wasn't speeding but going generaly fast) in the winding I can keep the shutters from catching on each other - also helps to make one continuous wind out of it and not to stop in the middle to reset your hand on the crank - the book even says to do this....





Sat, 11/29/2008 - 19:14


It should not matter how you wind the camera, in one go or not. So this camera is showing its age. But whatever way it still works, it still works... Now take good care of this camera! Working 1600 F cameras are getting rather rare, and everyone that's still with us needs to be pampered. Worst thing you can do to it is let it sit idle. So do use it, but be gentle with it.




Sat, 11/29/2008 - 22:35

The next time I take off the inside cover to expose the gears I'll take some extreme close-up shots showing how to un-jam it for anyone else that has this problem.


After looking through this camera pretty extensively today it's easy to tell that it's been worked on a time or two in it's life time.  I would also think you would be right about it not mattering how you wind it but what I've found is this:  For the first maybe 1/12 of the rotation it needs to be done slowly - there is a two-piece shaft inside that comes together in this first bit of cranking.  This is the part that jams and locks the rotating assembly.  Once these two pieces have meshed, it may be rotated normally for the rest of the rotation.  Taking care in this first portion of the winding seems to be all I need to keep this from jamming so that's how I'll be doing it from here on out ;^)  


Also, I hate to say this but I had to do a small bit of modifying on the body.  As I said it's clear that this has been worked on a time or two so I didn't feel bad about trying to get as good a look as I could.  I adjusted the lens release lever.  I don't know how this is supposed to look in original form as there are some scrapes and tooling marks showing bends in the arm already.  The button was stuck half depressed at all times, even without a lens in place.  I tweaked the arm inside so the button fully extends when no lens is in place.  I also had to notch the threading groove on the brass lens insert that is screwed to the face of the body for the tab on this lens-catch arm to sit in.  I understand this is hard to explain and pictures will be coming soon to help.  This lens insert had already been notched where the screw tab on the lens fits through but it was a very large notch and does not look like a factory job - maybe it was enlarged for a special/different lens at some point.  The lens catch arm was very hard to get to with so little room.  I really did not want to do any of this modifying but there seemd no other way to make it work and I did my best to keep it all clean and smooth.  Fortunatly my job entails this kind of work on small parts so I'm fluent in what I was doing, only I work on firearms and have not done cameras until now.


I also just checked the number on the Zeiss lens at the Hasselblad Historical site and found it was made in 1955.


Here are some photos I've taken of it so far, just exterior:



I'll be ordering some standard Hasselblad 12 backs for this in a few days and should have them in about 15 days- just before X-mas -since the Kiev backs don't fit as I was told they would, and of course I'll be posting more for all who are interested as time goes on.  I think this is quite a find I have here and I love sharing it with everyone.


Sun, 11/30/2008 - 21:13

Ok, now it's jammed and my little trick isn't working.


I'll get back to you guys later...


Sun, 11/30/2008 - 23:19

Fixed it!


Found a new release lever in the mechanism....


Give me a couple weeks and I should be able to write a book on Field Repair for this thing!


....and since I have that cover off again, i'll start taking some pics when I get home from work tomorrow...


Mon, 12/01/2008 - 19:32

Latest update:


About this new lever I found......      I found the lever that realeases the shutter.  If things are bound I can trip this and everything unwinds and I simply crank it all up again and start over - with film in there it may mean losing a shot on the film or even two if I have to complete the 'missed' wind and wind through another empty frame, but it gets things unstuck.


Now, looking more closely I notice that it is the mirror linkage arm that trips this shutter release lever.  It's just a strong hunch but I think the shutter release lever needs a bit of lube.  It may not be returning to it's start position and therefore be tripping without being touched by the mirror linkage  - that would lock up the gears as has been happening....   It's no surprise that it probably needs some fresh lube after God only knows how many years it's been since the last time it was serviced.  I know it was inspected at the shop I purchased it from but it was not 'serviced' there for sure.


Still working on the pics of the inner gears - I don't have anything yet to supply the light I need in such a tight space....  my strobes are a bit much and I don't know where my flashlight is, but I'll find it.




Mon, 12/01/2008 - 21:01

Good luck with this all (sure sounds like you are indeed having some!).

Please do share some pictures, and maybe even write that field repair guide and share it with us too!